Scalp facial, anyone? If you’ve mainly focused on how to create a healthy head of hair, experts say you should start by taking better care of your scalp.
I am cursed with my father’s sensitive skin and have always shaken my fist in his general genetic direction whenever I have flare-ups of seborrheic dermatitis, hives, windburn, sun spots, or a random flake on my shoulder (my mother’s not off the hook, either; I have her to thank for rosacea).
After years of doing battle with disgusting tar-based shampoos and stinky sulphuric products, I’m happy that scalp care is finally enjoying its moment in the beauty spotlight. Scalp facials and head spas (originating from Japan, where they believe scalp health is essential to a healthy head of hair) are now accessible nationally, so to put one to the test, I searched for a salon that could put an end to my long winter and spring of hair havoc. Wearing my glasses constantly had inflamed the sides of my scalp, while all along my hairline I suffered from red, itchy patches of dermatitis. Not pretty.
I found relief in the form of an antiaging scalp treatment from Nori at Nagi Hair salon in New York City. After he inspected my scalp, I was horrified to learn and see close up just how dry and red it was. He also noted that I had sunburned my crown (note to self: buy a new hat). After assessing the damage, he got to work applying a light, cherry blossom–infused cream to rid the scalp of old product buildup, dead skin, and flakes—all of which were contributing to my discomfort.
Nori applied Milbon Purifying Gel Shampoo with a special brush that tickled a little, then massaged it in lightly, showing me how not to scrub but instead stimulate the circulation through small plucking motions with his fingertips. He also did a neck and shoulder massage before rinsing out the shampoo. This is the part where I passed out for a good 10 minutes and may have paid just to sleep there another hour. Afterward he combed a soothing moisturizer into my scalp and finished with a gentle blowout. My hair hasn’t been this shiny nor my noggin this itch-free in months. While a salon treatment is just that—a treat—I’ll definitely add weekly scalp care to my list of summer to-do’s.
Pretend You’re a Baby
Gentle massage and exfoliation are the name of the scalp care game. Many of us scrub too intensely, aggravating the problem and stimulating oil glands—clogging the scalp pores and follicles even more. Rather than vigorously scrubbing, it may help to apply a soothing, chemical- and fragrance-free shampoo and work it upward with small plucking motions with your fingertips and thumbs.
When my scalp gets particularly unruly and flaky, especially in the winter, I reach for infant eczema or cradle cap shampoos (Mustela® makes solid inflammation-fighting products) and apply them generously. I’ve even used my daughter’s silicone baby comb to gently massage problem areas. It feels great and lifts up patches of stubborn dermatitis.
Moisturize Thy Scalp
You’ve likely spent a small college fund on facial moisturizers and antiaging serums in this lifetime. Why not share the love with your scalp? Many dandruff and psoriasis sufferers swear by coconut and jojoba oils for their antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, antifungal properties.
To avoid the greasy look, it’s a good idea to try a pre-shampoo or overnight treatment. First “steam” the scalp with a warm, damp towel wrapped around your head, then apply a little oil to your palm and rub your fingertips in it. Run your fingers lightly through your scalp, then allow the oil to soak in (which it will, quickly). Shampoo or sleep, your pick.
Soothsayers
After your shampoo, opt for a detoxifying, soothing serum. I’ve tried numerous tea tree oil applications to ensure my scalp is free of dead skin and has a bit of a barrier resistant to future irritants. You can apply a few drops of tea tree oil to a carrier oil such as jojoba, then blend it together. The OGX® Tea Tree collection is refreshing and smells lovely; I particularly recommend applying the Tea Tree Mint Extra Strength Scalp Treatment after you condition.
Get ready for a happy and healthy head of hair!